In this section I will go over the turbo install. The turbo install will consist of: mounting the manifold, mounting the turbo on the manifold, connecting the oil feed and drain lines, connect the coolant feed and drain lines, creating the downpipe, and lastly create proper heat shielding to protect the brake and clutch fluid as well as the coolant lines going into the firewall.

Here are some pics from the parts sourcing section. The turbo and manifold as well as the stainless steel oil feed line and fat oil drain hose.

Here's a test fit of everything put together. The turbo's mounted on the manifold using two factory studs and 2 bolts. The coolant feed and drain hardlines are connected via the banjo bolts and copper sealing washers. In the foreground of the picture you can see the oil drain flange and hardline mounted via the hex screws. The steel line will later be cut approximately 2 inches from the flange so that the red oil drain hose can slip over the hardline and clamp on with the supplied hose clamps. You can also barely see the manifold cuts between runners 1 and 2, and runners 3 and 4.

This is the installtion of the FM stainless steel oil feed kit. The 1.6l block provides a nice oil source on the side right under the turbo, so all I had to do was unbolt the plug, put in the metric-an adapter, screw on the an 90 degree swivel, and then screw the SS line onto that.

This is the turbo and manifold mounted. You can see the oil feed sitting on the side. In the pic to the far right you can see the blue metric-an adapter for the turbo side that I had to purchase from Indy Earls, then on top of that is another 90 degree swivel supplied in the FM kit.

Don't forget to hook up some coolant feed lines. I originally used 3/16'' silicone hosing, that was the worst idea EVER, I don't know what I was thinking when I did that. After a while the coolant would just heat up the silicone and it would get soft and tear, thus leaking coolant out all over. Once I realized my stupid mistake, I picked up some coolant hose of the same size from my local Checker Auto Parts and swapped that in instead. The coolant source and drain could be found on the thermostat housing and on the engine block a little bit below that. The coolant hoses were clamped over those barbs and then run to the hard lines connected to the turbo. It took a little bit of muscle to slip those hoses over the hard lines, but once they were on, they were clamped and not easily taken off.

Now that the turbo is mounted and the oil and coolant lines are connected, it's time to start making a downpipe. The eBay "kit" supplied me with the partial 2.25'' downpipe to the left, but I found that the length was far too long to be used and that I had to cut it down just before the flex pipe. I also purchased 2 2.5'' U mandrel bends from JC Whitney as well as some 2.5'' straight pipe from a local muffler shop. On another note, I had to use a 4'' angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to cut all of my piping, so it was pretty tough getting an even cut. So please, if you attempt to do this, do yourself a HUGE favor and get yourself a cutoff saw, it'll make the cutting go by so much faster, plus you won't have to worry about uneven cuts which will make the welding tough. I also picked up a bunch of 2.5'' 3 hole flanges from JC Whitney to connect the sections. Another recommendation would be to NOT use this flanges because they are very large, so pick up some 2 hole flanges instead (which I couldn't find for a decent price). What I did was mount the small section from the factory downpipe, jump under the car, measure off a piece of the mandrel, cut it, go back under the car, make sure it lines up, and then tack the pipes together. Rinse and repeat until you have something that looks like a downpipe that continues under the car horizontally. Then I had to pull it all off and weld the entire downpipe together. I picked up a cheap 110V FCAW Cambell Hausfield welder from my local Lowes to learn how to weld, so I started with this downpipe. It's a lot of fun learning how to weld, but sometimes frustrating when you can't get a decent looking weld. Please excuse some of the welds as they are pretty ugly. Once I got to welding the intercooler piping I could start laying down a decent bead. The rest of the exhaust fabrication is covered on the "Exhaust Fabrication" page.

Now, to keep all that nasty heat from melting your beloved brake fluid container and coolant lines you'll need some sort of heat shielding. My ghetto-style (or ULTRA JDM, you choose) was made from 3 sheet metal shingles from the local Home Depot ( < $1 each), a bunch of rivets, and that heat shielding material (HSM)I picked up off of eBay. My original heat shield was just a panel made from 1 shingle that bolts into one of the airbox mounts with the HSM on it. I also wrapped the coolant lines and brake fluid bottle with the HSM. However, one rainy morning on my way to work while I was sitting at a stoplight, I noticed the rain on the hood above the turbo was STEAMING, yep, steaming, I kid you not. So I decided to get a little creative and make this hot air box-type thinger to insulate the hood a little too. Like I wrote above, it's made from 3 metal shingles, rivets, and HSM. The step-by-step pics are pretty much self explanatory. It mounts to one of the factory air box mounts and to 2 of the cam cover bolts. It works well, the hood doesn't get nearly as hot and definitely doesn't turn the rain into steam any more!